Reykjavík: Landmannalaugar Hike and the Valley of Tears

Landmannalaugar is where Iceland’s volcanic past turns into a full day outdoors: black obsidian underfoot, sulphur-streaked mountains ahead, and a hot pool waiting after the hike. I like the two-hour guided walk because it gives you a clear route without turning the day into a hard trek, and I like the stop at Sigöldugljúfur, a waterfall-filled canyon that many day trips skip.

I also like the generous time in Landmannalaugar. You can hike with the guide, choose another marked route, take photos, or soak in the natural pool. The tradeoff is the road: this is a long day from Reykjavík, with rough F-roads, engine noise, and plenty of jolting, so motion sickness medicine may be wise.

Key points at a glance

• Landmannalaugar stay: More than three hours in the Fjallabak Nature Reserve, including a guided hike and time to bathe.
• Obsidian and rhyolite: Walk across Laugahraun’s black lava and see the mineral colors of Brennisteinsalda, the Sulphur Wave.
• Valley of Tears: Visit Sigöldugljúfur, a canyon filled with clear streams, small waterfalls, ponds, and bright plant life.
• Long 4WD journey: The rough highland road is part of the adventure, but it can be noisy and tiring.
• Good value for non-drivers: At $210 per person, the price covers transport, a local guide, the hike, photo stops, Wi-Fi, and USB charging.
• Bring the right gear: Hiking shoes, rain clothing, gloves, swimwear, a towel, lunch, and a working phone are all important.

Why Landmannalaugar feels unlike Iceland’s easier day trips

Many day trips from Reykjavík follow paved roads and visit familiar waterfalls. This one heads inland toward the Fjallabak Nature Reserve, where the terrain becomes rougher, emptier, and far more volcanic.

The area was shaped by long periods of eruptions, lava flows, and geothermal activity. Laugahraun, the lava field near Landmannalaugar, formed during an eruption in 1477. Its obsidian is black, glassy, and sharply broken. It is the same type of volcanic glass often called dragon glass in popular culture.

The mountains are just as striking. Rhyolite contains quartz and silica, with iron and sulphur adding red, yellow, green, and brown shades. Brennisteinsalda, known as the Sulphur Wave, is the clearest example. Steam rises near small hot springs, and the colors shift as the weather changes.

You do not need to be an experienced hiker to appreciate this place. The main guided walk is described as beginner-friendly, though you still need to handle uneven ground, wind, rain, and a sustained two-hour outing. Good footwear matters far more than speed.

The road from Reykjavík is part of the experience

Pickup begins at selected Reykjavík hotels and bus stops, with an early morning start around 7:30. The vehicle may take up to 30 minutes to reach your stop, so keep your phone switched on and stay where the driver can find you.

The ride toward the highlands takes roughly two hours before the first major sights, with more driving later in the day. The vehicle is built for rough roads, but that does not make the ride smooth. Several departures have included long stretches of gravel and bumps, and one passenger found the rear seats cramped on the long return journey.

My practical advice is simple: avoid the very back if you can, bring water, and consider motion sickness tablets if you are sensitive to rough roads. The bus includes free Wi-Fi and USB ports, though engine noise can make commentary hard to hear in some seats. If your guide uses a headset well, the drive becomes much more useful. Guides such as Eddi, Tomasz, Sarah, Eddy, and others have been praised for geology, local stories, humor, and safe driving, but the quality of spoken commentary can vary by departure.

The road can also slow down for sheep, horses, weather, or vehicle problems. That is not a flaw unique to this tour. It is the reality of reaching Iceland’s interior by road. You are trading easy transport for access to scenery that is difficult to reach without a capable 4WD vehicle.

Hjálparfoss gives the day a gentle start

Hjálparfoss, or Help’s Fall, is a two-level waterfall dropping into a broad pool. Unusual basalt formations frame the water, giving the stop a different character from Iceland’s taller, more famous falls.

The name comes from the old route across Sprengisandur. People crossing the highlands with horses could struggle to find grass and water. Reaching the greener area around the waterfall felt like a true help after the harsh journey.

This is mainly a photo and walking stop, not a long visit. That works well early in an 11-hour day. You get fresh air, a chance to stretch your legs, and a first look at the volcanic rock before settling in for the road ahead.

Landmannalaugar offers the day’s main reward

Landmannalaugar is the reason to book this trip. You spend more than three hours here, enough for the guided walk, photos, food, and a soak if conditions and timing cooperate.

The guide leads a roughly two-hour route through the Laugahraun lava field and toward Brennisteinsalda. Expect black obsidian, colorful mountain slopes, geothermal steam, and wide views across the highlands. The trail is not presented as an extreme hike, but Icelandic weather can make an easy route feel more demanding. Rain and strong wind have caused some people to shorten or skip the walk.

The guide may offer different route choices, depending on weather and group ability. You can stay with the group, walk at your own pace within the allotted time, or choose a different trail. One especially active option combines Brennisteinsalda with Bláhnjúkur, though you should confirm the day’s route and timing with your guide.

This flexibility is one of the tour’s strongest features. A fit hiker can make the most of the time on foot. Someone less active can take the shorter route, enjoy the viewpoints, or remain near the huts and pool. You are not forced into a single pace.

The natural hot pool is a welcome finish

After the hike, you can bathe in Landmannalaugar’s natural hot pool. This is not a luxury spa. It is an outdoor geothermal pool in a rugged setting, and the appeal comes from sitting in warm water with the highlands around you.

Bring a swimsuit and towel. A small daypack makes it easier to keep these items dry and accessible. The pool is a particularly good option if rain or wind makes hiking less pleasant, though time is limited and the group needs to leave together.

Some departures have allowed a relaxed soak, while others have had less time because of delays or people needing help finding the correct route. Treat the bath as an included option, not a guaranteed long spa session. Even a short soak can be the right ending after two hours on uneven ground.

Sigöldugljúfur is more than a quick photo stop

Sigöldugljúfur, also called the Valley of Tears, is one of the most memorable parts of the route. The canyon is fed by springs, creating small ponds, clear streams, and a series of waterfalls among cliffs and low vegetation.

The water can look intensely blue, especially against the dark volcanic rock. The canyon does not rely on one giant waterfall. Its appeal comes from the number of small cascades and channels spread through the gorge.

This stop is generally for sightseeing and photography rather than a long hike. That makes it easy to enjoy, but you should keep your expectations clear. Landmannalaugar receives the main block of time, while the Valley of Tears is a scenic stop on the way back toward Reykjavík.

The canyon is also a strong reason to choose this particular outing instead of a basic Landmannalaugar transfer. Several tours reach the reserve, but fewer include Sigöldugljúfur. If waterfalls and unusual water features are high on your list, this addition gives the day more variety.

What the $210 price really buys you

At $210 per person, this is not a cheap bus excursion. The value comes from combining difficult transport, a local driver-guide, a guided walk, and several remote stops in one day.

Hiring or renting a suitable 4WD vehicle would require more planning, driving confidence, and attention to road conditions. You would also need to know where to stop and how to fit Landmannalaugar, Hjálparfoss, and Sigöldugljúfur into the day. For a first visit, the tour removes much of that work.

The small-group format adds value because the guide can adjust the walking pace and explain the geology, legends, and route. Photo help is also included, which can be useful when the light, wind, and busy scenery make it hard to frame a shot.

The price does not include food or drinks. Buy lunch and snacks before departure. One practical stop for food is not guaranteed at the right time, and the highlands are not the place to assume you can easily purchase a meal.

Who will enjoy this day most

I would choose this trip if you want to see Iceland’s interior but do not have a 4WD vehicle or time for a multi-day trek. It suits adults and children aged 10 or older who can walk for two hours on uneven terrain.

It is especially good for you if:

• You want volcanic geology rather than only classic waterfalls.
• You like a guided hike but want free time afterward.
• You want a hot pool without booking a formal spa.
• You are happy to spend a full day on the road for remote scenery.
• You want a small-group trip with photo stops and local commentary.

It is less suitable if you need smooth transport, dislike long drives, or want a strenuous full-day hike. Wheelchair users cannot take this tour, and the rough road may be uncomfortable for anyone with back problems or strong motion sickness.

Weather is another real factor. The highlands can look extraordinary in sunshine, but rain and wind may change the hiking plan. Pack for four seasons, not for the forecast you saw in Reykjavík.

How to prepare for the highlands

Wear hiking shoes with a firm sole. Add waterproof outer layers, warm clothing, gloves, and a hat. The open terrain offers little protection from wind, and conditions can shift during the day.

Pack:

• Swimsuit and towel
• Lunch and drinks
• Camera or phone
• Small daypack
• Rain gear
• Gloves and warm outdoor clothing
• Motion sickness medicine if needed

Your phone must work and have data access if roaming applies. The operator needs to reach you if the vehicle is delayed or cannot immediately locate you at the pickup point.

Pickup and drop-off are available at selected Reykjavík hotels and bus stops, including City Hall, the Reykjavík Bus Terminal, Lækjargata, Miðbakki, Höfðatorg, and several hotels. Check your exact location carefully. Being at the wrong stop can cost you the day.

Should you book Landmannalaugar and the Valley of Tears?

Book it if remote volcanic scenery, a manageable hike, and a geothermal soak sound better than a relaxed sightseeing loop. The strongest parts are the generous time at Landmannalaugar, the unusual obsidian and rhyolite terrain, and the Valley of Tears stop.

Go in knowing that the road is rough and the day is long. Commentary may be excellent with a guide such as Eddi or Tomasz, but sound quality and presentation can vary. Choose a forward or middle seat, bring lunch, and pack seriously for wet weather.

For $210, I think this is a strong choice for someone without a 4WD vehicle who wants a carefully planned first look at Iceland’s highlands. It is not the right pick for comfort seekers, but for scenery and access, it gives you a lot in one demanding, memorable day.

FAQ

How long is the Landmannalaugar and Valley of Tears tour?

The full experience lasts about 11 hours, including transportation from Reykjavík, sightseeing stops, time in Landmannalaugar, the hike, and the return journey.

How much does the tour cost?

The price is $210 per person.

Is pickup and drop-off included?

Yes. Pickup and drop-off are included at selected hotels and bus stops in Reykjavík.

What time does pickup begin?

You should be ready at 7:30 AM. The minibus may take up to 30 minutes to arrive, depending on the distance from the starting point.

How long is the hike in Landmannalaugar?

The guided hike lasts about two hours and goes through the obsidian fields toward Brennisteinsalda, also called the Sulphur Wave.

Can I swim in a natural hot pool?

Yes. You can bathe in the natural hot pool at Landmannalaugar. Bring your own swimsuit and towel.

Is food included?

No. Food and drinks are not included, so buy lunch and snacks before the tour.

What language is the tour conducted in?

The live tour guide speaks English.

Is the tour suitable for children or wheelchair users?

Children under 10 are not permitted, and the tour is not suitable for wheelchair users.